Category Archives: Beginner’s Topics

Beginner’s Guide : Losing Contact with the Boat and Diagnosing That It Turns Out To Be Moisture in the Electrics…..!!

I’d heard a lot about this subject as a beginner. It must happen a lot !

As you may have seen on the website yesterday, during the Marblehead Rankings Nigel B lost radio contact with his F6.

It turned out to be “damp in the electrics”. We had only one discard in the day, so it was really important for Nigel to diagnose and fix it quickly. This is what he did (very rapidly!):-

1/ Boat on to the stand, pot lid off, and quickly verify power in the boat and especially at the receiver because the receiver’s LED was glowing green. Waggle the two joy-sticks to determine what was working and what was not working.

2/ Sure enough, for Nigel the rudder was not responding, but the mainsheet was OK. Conclusion = not a complete closedown and there is power in the boat. Good news.

3/ LED was green so that tells you it’s in the rudder setup somewhere. Where to look next?

4/ Statistical guess : rudder servos don’t fail all that often, so the connection where the rudder circuit joins the Receiver is number one suspect. Pull out the connector to channel one and have a close visual inspection which revealed the wicked glint of moisture.

5/ I’d heard about a product called “Corrosion X” before, but not seen it in action. It looks like WD40, may be a bit thicker perhaps. It is supposed to do all the WD40 type things plus be the best water dispersant and repellant that money can buy,… safe on electronics especially. Anyway, out comes Nigel’s Corrosion X aerosol from the van, …squirt squirt…. deep into the connectors of the receiver… right “in” there….I must say Nigel was not afraid to be generous. Then a good blow to help the excess away. I don’t think it needed a moment to dry or anything like that.

6/ Plug the rudder circuit back into the receiver, checking the plug is the correct way around (!!), instant fix !! Waggle joysticks and “job done”!!

7/ Pot lid on – go racing !!!

Lessons :-

a) I think GH uses Corrosion X as a regular setup tool (not just a “fix”) on the electrics. Interesting.

b) someone in the car park probably has a can of Corrosion X, but I resolved to get a 250ml can from Amazon and keep it in the car….. WRONG!!

This photo above is the smallest, cheapest Corrosion X unit on Amazon. Obviously to all of us, 250ml will last a radio sailor several lifetimes. However… I made a mistake because that trigger on the can is NOT an atomiser. Squeeze the trigger and there’s only one adjustment size…. A thick rod of lubricant shoots out – honestly one squirt would make an entire Chieftain Tank very slippery !!

You actually want the smallest aerosol can that you can find online. (see Nigel’s in the top photo). Eventually I had to go to the manufacturers own (UK) website and order it there. 475ml was the smallest aerosol …so two friends can share one, each for a lifetime. Shipment from amazon is free of course, but CorrosionX use Fedex so your total price is bumped up a lot. 475ml was though near the same price as 250ml with the trigger on top, so keep a sense of humour and sense of proportion about the whole thing!!

If you know anyone with a Chieftain Tank, let them know I have something for them….

Inside the Receiver Pot of a Champion ….!!

You may have read that the Marblehead Rankings at Datchet last weekend had a few wilder moments weather-wise. My goodness, Nigel B had his share of issue management on the Sunday !!

For Nigel, it turned out to be damp in the receiver pot. I shall shortly put a “Beginner’s Guide” article on the website about how Nigel went about diagnosing this particular type of “lost radio contact with the boat” occasion. It was really quick and only one race was lost – very impressive!

Before I do that, I thought you might like to see Nigel’s highly ordered approach to the interior of the radio pot itself.

If you take a look at the photo above, note:-

  • Both battery and receiver attached to the upper side of the pot with velcro to keep them away from washing moisture in the bilge. The receiver sockets are uppermost as far away from trouble as you’d expect to get. Can you see that both battery and receiver are about as close to the lid as possible?
  • Vapex LIFE battery I believe, which last time I looked means the XT30 connector is a special order item!
  • Relaxed approach to antenna management – ha !! Looks neat though.

Nigel has two great additional tips:-

1/ Fit a breather pipe so that plunging a “warm” hull into cold water doesn’t suck in water through some weeny hole as it cools. GH says it can also help the hull to stop pumping the air pressure through waves. Try flexing the sides of a modern Marblehead and you’ll see what he means. The general idea of both members is that this is a great way of keeping the hull dry inside. By the way, I noted at the weekend that around half the fleet had breather pipes fitted. Many had a special little Sails-etc breather post (very smart looking sort of shark fin thing !), but on Henning Faas (spectacular) new Niou Niou it was a simple pipe buried in the deck patch. This approach is also favoured by PH and k7yachts here at Datchet.

2/ The standard pot comes with a thin plastic shim which sadly does not prevent water ingress. NB says that Tony Edwards had recommended getting a sheet of 2mm foam off amazon and putting that inside the pot lid as a seal. Highly recommended as a near to perfect closure. You can see it in the photo above.

3/ I must say too that it can be a good idea to keep a little vaseline in the tool box to smear around the pot lid thread for water proofing.

Beginner’s Guide : Great Video Briefing on Setting Up the FlySky Transmitter for Radio Sailing…..!!

There’s a whole pile of videos on setting up the Flysky transmitter for Radio Sailing. This video is well prepared and brief !! I wish I had it to hand when we set up HS’s new transmitter last week!!

I like it.